Letchworth State Park

Spanning 14,427 acres in New York, Letchworth State Park, known as the “Grand Canyon of the East,” is a haven for equestrians. With 66 miles of hiking trails, over 17 miles are dedicated to horseback riding, offering breathtaking views of gorges, forests, and waterfalls. The park provides diverse experiences with the bustling West Side, featuring attractions and a $10 fee, and the tranquil East Side’s Parade Grounds, offering free access and extensive horse-friendly trails. This park blends natural beauty with equestrian adventure, making it a must-visit for riders seeking a scenic and safe outdoor experience.



Links


Stats – Big Bend Loop

Ride or Drive – Ride or Drive
Trail Level – Moderate Dirt/Gravel road, most of it 1 lane wide.
Parking – Fantastic – Large and wide and can handle large groups.  Hose connection for water at the drinking fountain next to the playground.
Distance – 16 miles of trails, big bend loop ~9miles
Challenges – large elevation loss and gain. Add time to allow for breaks on your way back up. Plenty of areas to get off the road and rest.


Letchworth State Park

Introduction

Letchworth State Park stands as a jewel in New York State’s crown of natural wonders. Dubbed the “Grand Canyon of the East,” its grandeur and magnificence rival some of the country’s most renowned natural attractions. Spanning a vast 14,427 acres and stretching 17 miles in length, the park offers a rich tapestry of scenic vistas, deep gorges, verdant forests, and cascading waterfalls.

Boasting 66 miles of hiking trails. Of these, over 17 miles are tailored for horseback riding, offering equestrians a unique way to experience the park’s splendors.

For those who find solace in the company of their equine companions, Letchworth State Park promises an unmatched riding experience.

Setting

Letchworth State Park stretches across both flanks of the Genesee Valley River Gorge. The more bustling side, which includes the Glen Iris, Camping, Nature Center, and other attractions, is situated on the park’s West Side. A park fee of $10, current at the time of this podcast, applies to this area. For those arriving with trailers, parking is available at the Trail Side Lodge, granting access to a trail network spanning 5.75 miles. Equestrian-friendly trails include the #3 Trout Pond, #2 Mary Jemison, and #2a Hemlock. It’s crucial to avoid the precarious gorge edge on Trail #1. And while horses are technically permitted on the park road, for everyone’s safety, it’s recommended to keep to the designated trails.

As a dedicated member of the Friends of Letchworth State Park and a trail steward, I can’t emphasize enough the importance of prioritizing safety. It’s alarming the number of individuals who accidentally fall over the edge each year. Let’s ensure we don’t add any equestrian mishaps to that count. Stay safe and enjoy the beauty of the park responsibly!

The Parade Grounds, situated on the eastern side of the park, is a haven for equestrian enthusiasts. There are no entrance fees, and it boasts more than 16 miles of horse-friendly trails. Parking options are ample, with lots located near the shelter. For events with larger crowds, additional parking on the grassy areas of the parade grounds is permitted, provided the ground is firm enough to sustain vehicles. However, do note, that during winter, this section of the park closed to vehicle traffic. For those part of the RTR Facebook group, members usually provide updates on the ground’s openings and closures, ensuring everyone stays informed.

Trails on this side of the park include, the park road itself, #10 Big Bend Loop, #8a BlueJay, #8 River Rd, #7 Genesee Valley Greenway.

While I may have cautioned you about the paid section of the park, here lies an opportunity to savor the magnificence of the gorge. This side offers the allure of expansive roads and trails, minimal traffic, and breathtaking vistas, all while ensuring a safer riding experience.

For more details on trails, see the link on the show notes page for maps of the park.

Preparation

October offers the ideal conditions for trail adventures, and in my opinion, Letchworth tops the list. While many equestrians shy away from the park due to fees or the concept of “road riding,” it’s a haven for carriage drivers. The expansive parking and the vibrant autumnal hues make it an excellent venue for a group carriage drive with WNYCCA. Since Letchworth holds a special place in my heart, I had the pleasure of sponsoring this group drive.

Life has its challenges, and in my case, it often involves meticulous planning. Just as I was gearing up, my husband informed me about a family bonfire the preceding night in Allegany, NY – nearly two hours away from our home. But serendipity struck: Letchworth is conveniently situated midway between our home and Allegany. So, after some strategic thinking, I hatched a plan. I’d take Pete with me to Allegany for the evening. This way, the next day I could head straight to Letchworth, bypassing the need to return home. A clever detour that saved me three hours of commuting and precious sleep!

OK’d by my better half to put up a temp paddock at our camp in Allegany, I packed up the trailer for my first ever overnight with Pete.  Who was not nearly as thrilled by this as I was.  But, a few T-posts, tape, Solar charger, and we had a makeshift paddock for my boy.  I got to enjoy the family bonfire and Pete chilled out at camp with extra hay and snacks.

The Journey

Morning brought a slow rise to daylight as thick dark clouds muted the fall foliage. So much for the forecast of 60’s and sun given 2 days prior.  Seems to be a theme this year, wanna ride, ok it’ll rain. I’m the one hosting, so I must go, just in case someone does show up! Cold rainy days scream warm comfort food post a group ride, so at 4:30am I started up some meatballs and sauce in the crockpot. By 7:30am I broke down my mini paddock and loaded Pete up.  8:30am and we were on the road up to Letchworth! Raining the entire way!

Pulling into the Parade Grounds lot at 10am the sun finally broke out and my spirits were lifted slightly.  I went to check the weather on my phone, no signal. Nothing, Zip, Nadda, Don’t collect $200. Great, with no internet meant no weather report nor a clue how many people were coming.

I checked on Pete and turned on the radio to wait. Go Bills! they were playing in London today and the game was on in the morning. As for the result of that game, I don’t wanna talk about it 

Just about the time I was second guessing my own resolve to go on a drive in the cold rain, another trailer pulled up.  Michele brought her Dutch Harness Pair, Hummer and Harley, and Kim as her groom.  The three of us shared a mutual consensus: we might be a tad crazy. But given the lengths we’d traveled to be at Letchworth, it was time to hitch up and make the most of it!

Against a backdrop of moody skies, the fall colors dazzled in their full splendor. The sun intermittently graced us with its presence, interspersed with brief rain showers as we navigated towards the E-Cabin loop. Ordinarily, this would mark our turning point. However, with the sun now beaming through the dense canopy, we couldn’t gauge if more rain was on its way. Since we were the only two hitches in attendance, we collectively decided, “Why not?” and embarked on the entire Big Bend Loop.

At some juncture, we began to second-guess our decision. I believe it was around the halfway mark, where we paused to give our horses a breather. There, overlooking the staggering 600ft gorge from the vantage of the Great Bend Overlook, drenched to our innermost layer and shivering, the weight of our choice truly sunk in.

After capturing our dampened adventure in photos, we trudged on. Midway back to the E-Cabins, Michele halted and calmly turned to Kim, saying, “Don’t panic, but a trace just fell off.” The trace, a pivotal leather strap connecting to the horse’s breast collar, and facilitates the pulling of the carriage. Further complicating the situation, this was the inner trace of a two-horse hitch, making it challenging to access. Michele guided Kim on reattaching the trace to its proper place. It was then that the root of the issue revealed itself: the pin securing the quick-release clasp had vanished during our journey! A frenzied search through spare boxes yielded a snap, effectively averting a potential mishap.

 

As we pressed on, the sun continued its playful game of hide and seek. Our path was hardly what one would call a “road”; it was a narrow, rugged dirt trail that tested the suspension of our carriages. The marathon vehicle might boast an air-bag ride, but even that couldn’t shield us from the relentless jolts. My bladder, having reached its tolerance, was pleading for relief. I was immensely grateful to Kim in that moment, as she promptly took my place on the whip’s seat while I sought a discreet spot for a much-needed break. Feeling relieved and reenergized, I was now up for whatever lay ahead!

Indeed, the day still had its surprises in store for us! Eager to document our journey, I had been stowing my phone in what I believed to be a secure jacket pocket. However, the jolting ascent on the next steep hill begged to differ. As we paused to let the horses catch their breath, I reached for my phone, anticipating a picturesque moment. To my dismay, the pocket was empty. “Kim,” I began with a hint of panic, “Could you hold onto Pete for a moment? I need to retrace our steps and find my phone.”

Kim quickly took over reins in the whips-seat. With the locator feature on my Apple Watch activated, I started retracing our bumpy route, back down the hill, hoping to hear the familiar ping of my phone. At one point, I thought I caught a distant call of my name but, with limited visibility, I stayed focused on my mission. The Apple Watch proved its worth as I soon located my phone. Making my way back up the incline, I truly appreciated the immense strength of horses. Pulling a carriage up such terrain was no small feat, and by the time I reached our resting spot, I was thoroughly out of breath.

Once I rejoined the group, Michele and Kim shared a harrowing tale. They had indeed shouted my name, and their urgency was warranted. Pete, feeling an itch, had lowered his head and inadvertently removed his bridle. A hitched horse without its bridle is possibly the most precarious situation one can face. Gratefully, Pete’s calm demeanor prevailed as he simply stood still. With both Michele and Kim in their respective carriages and no one on the ground to assist, Kim had to muster her courage. She disembarked from the carriage, fervently hoping Pete would remain stationary, proceeded to fully remove the bridle, and then tried to place it back on him — all while he was still attached to the carriage. According to Kim, the biggest challenge wasn’t the dislodged bridle, but his reluctance to release the bit. It was as if he was saying, “Hold on, I’m still hitched! This stays in place!”

The tousled state of Pete’s mane was the sole testament to the recent escapade. Relieved, Kim eagerly handed the reins back to me, preferring to take a steadier spot on the groom’s step of Michele’s carriage. With laughter in our voices, we jestingly agreed that we’d had enough unexpected thrills for one day, having encountered three already. And with that, we set our sights on the next stretch, ascending towards the overlook parking area.

The horses gratefully paused, seizing the moment to relax, while we extracted our phones to capture a few more scenic shots and exchanged greetings with the handful of visitors who ventured to this side of the park. With one final uphill task ahead, we made our way back to the trailer. As we approached, the thickening clouds cast a more somber hue, and the strengthening wind tested the resilience of the remaining leaves, making them quiver and rustle in defiance.

Our party may have been a modest one, with three horses, three humans, and two hitches, but that didn’t mean we’d skimp on the festivities. Under the awning of Michele’s trailer, we indulged in hearty servings of meatballs, pulled pork, and tortellini, perfectly complemented by a glass of Peach Spumante. The weather might have been less than favorable, but nothing could dampen the spirits of us WNYCCA members! Speaking of which, how exactly do you pronounce ‘WNYCCA’?

Conclusion

Letchworth State Park holds the #5 spot in my equestrian adventures, and every visit reaffirms why. The park’s beauty remains unscathed regardless of the weather conditions, always presenting a picturesque landscape. While I usually gravitate towards the Parade Grounds area, I have ventured to the park’s paid side on occasion. That was when they offered guided trail rides on rented horses. However, I don’t possess an Empire Pass, and shelling out $10 for just 6 miles of trail feels a tad excessive for me. Nevertheless, Letchworth’s allure is undeniable, and every journey there is a memory in the making.

For equestrians exploring Letchworth State Park, it’s an immersive experience that’s a tad challenging to encapsulate purely in numbers. While I’d typically provide details on the length, distance, and elevation gain of the trails, the absence of cell service made it difficult for my Equilab to function. Nonetheless, to give you an idea, the complete loop we ventured on spanned approximately 9-10 miles. The journey was dotted with steep elevations, presenting rollercoaster-like terrain with frequent 200’ variations. The route boasts numerous overlooks and trailhead parking spaces, offering regular intervals for rest.

For fellow riders, you’d be pleased to know that aside from the main trail, there are several other trails branching out that welcome horses. Do heed the signage to determine the trails designated for equestrian use.

I cannot stress enough how rewarding the Big Bend Loop is, particularly when visited during the autumn season. The rich tapestry of fall colors enhances the already mesmerizing experience and I’m sure you will find it as enjoyable.

Letchworth State Park Rating

Parking: 

4 Hooves! It doesn’t matter which side of the park you’re on, large lots and overflow grass parking make the perfect for group rides.

Maps/Signange:

3 Hooves – The old maps online used to show you which trails were horse accessible, and which weren’t. I sent a note off to the Friends Group to bring this issue up at their next meeting with park management. However, if you go to the notes page for this episode you’ll find detailed maps marked for horse use.

Difficulty:

2 Hooves – The trails themselves aren’t the issue but the nature of the park with its steep elevation gains means you should visit when your horse is more conditioned, either that or add time into your ride to give them needed breaks.

Maintenance:

4 Hooves – Letchworth is the #1 state park in the country with a huge staff, including many that live within the park, and its own police force. Most of the trail maintenance and improvements are funded and staffed by volunteers with the Friends of Letchworth State Park.  If you’d like to sponsor their work, or volunteer yourself, consider becoming a member!

That wraps up today’s show, until next time. Respect the trail, wear a helmet, and clean up after your horse at the trailer site. Happy Trails!